Be sure that the length of the wire you replace is equal to the new wire. Make sure the terminals are securely seated in the coil pack and on the spark plugs.
Coat the metal conductor with dielectric grease that will come with the pack of wires. Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing up the firing order. Terminals and rubber boots should already be installed on the wires. If new spark plug wires are neccessary, buy a complete set, pre-cut for your particular engine. Bend the wire in several places to make sure that the inside conductor hasn't hardened. Clean built-up dirt and grease along the entire length of the wire with a clean cloth while inspecting the wire for burnt areas, cracks, and other obvious damage. If it doesn't, remove the spark plug wire and a pair of pliers to crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot until the fit is snug. It should fit tightly onto the spark plug. Turn the engine off and push the plug wire and boot back onto the spark plug. Look for a strong, even spark to be generated between the blade and ground and steady intervals. Using an insulated screwdriver, insert it into the boot so it contacts the metal connector inside and have and assisstant turn the engine over while you hold the metal part of the screwdriver about an inch or less (but not touching) from a good ground like an unpainted screw or a piece of metal.
Check inside the boot for corrosion, which is a white crusty powder (don't mistake the white dielectric grease used on spark plug wire boots for corrosion). Be sure the pull on the boot and not on the wire or you'll likely pull the wire out of the boot neccessatating new wires. You can use a special spark plug removal tool available for a low cost at most auto parts counters or you can grasp the rubber boot and twist it gently while pulling the wire free. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
Make sure you do this one at a time to prevent mixing them up, which is essential for proper engine operation. In any event this is how you check your plug wires. How much did they charge for a tune-up? What was included? It ran.Kind of funny that they said you should replace the plug wires when checking them to see if they need to be replaced is a major part of a tune up. I’m not sure why my coil pack would be bad because I had it running when I jumped the starter directly when I first put the new starter in. There’s a kit online that comes with it all but I’d prefer not to buy another selanoid if I already have one. Only problem with that is I have to get the harness and wiring. I already have a spare updated selanoid for the running ski so I’ll use that one. The next thing is I’ll try after trying to bypass rev limiter is updating the selanoid to the same as the one with the running ski. I’d steal the rev limiter from the running ski to put in the one with no spark but it has the updated selanoid with the harness so it won’t transfer easily at all. I’m going to see if I can by pass the rev limiter and see if I get spark. Manuel says that a bad rev limiter can cause no spark. Take the coil pack off the running ski I have and put in the one without spark to see if it works. The three things I’m thinking of to fix this are:ġ. Being it’s for a lawn mower and I had to run a new wire that was never there. I wonder if that me having a Home Depot selanoid in the other would cause no spark. My other ski which is the same has the updated selanoid with the harness on the bottom and the two big posts at the top. I had to run a ground wire from a post on the selanoid to the negative on the battery. That’s when I found out that I couldn’t start with the buttons. I just had it running last summer when I put a new starter in it. I’ve got two of the same skis and my one gets spark without trimming.
0 kommentar(er)
